Rempi Village

Rempi Village 4.3.2005

We are spending the weekend with the Rempi village, along the North coast of PNG. The particular clan we are staying with is home to Willie and Augustine, our language teachers. Augustine is one of the ‘big men’ of the clan and possesses a quiet dignity. He goes out of his way to make sure everyone is comfortable – he has my undying respect. His wife is named ‘Lanette’ – Augustine described her as a hard worker with a strong back, with much pride. She is the absolute sweetest pickle on earth. Fantastic smile. Hearty laugh. She marveled at my postcards from Cincinnati. She brings me my coffee in my favorite cup – the Ox & Tail corned beef mug. I was curious to know how instant coffee could taste so good and then I saw how much sugar they add – heaping spoonfuls. Everyone is gentle and kind. It’s truly a simple life. Cooking, cleaning, farming, laughing, swimming, sport, walks to the market… I have yet to see a dour face.

The village is putting on a pig roast this Sunday called a mu mu. They build this hole in the ground two feet deep, 4’ X 3’. The night before it is filled with stones. A fire is built on top of the stones and kept a blaze throughout the night. In the morning, half of the hot stones are removed. The stones left in the pit are covered with banana stalks and leaves. Next comes the pig – and I mean the whole pig, cut in pieces. The meat is covered by an assortment of stone and vegetables – banana, sweet potato, greens, etc. On top of this comes another layer of banana leaves. The remaining stones are then laid followed by another layer of banana leaves them completed with a few slabs of sheet metal. This will slow cook for 5-6hours. Good times.